Barbacàn

History

Barbacàn is a family estate on the vertiginous terraces of the Valtellina, in the Alpine north of Lombardy near the Swiss border, founded by Angelo Sega and now run with his sons Luca and Matteo. They are among the pioneers of natural wine in the valley and standard-bearers of 'heroic viticulture' — the hand-farming of dry-stone terraces too steep for any machine.

The estate works about 6 hectares between 400 and 750 metres, centred on Chiavennasca (the local Nebbiolo) alongside nearly-forgotten native grapes — Rossola, Pignola, Brugnola, Negrera. In the cellar, fermentations are spontaneous with indigenous yeasts, ageing is in large neutral oak, and the wines are bottled unfined, unfiltered and with minimal sulfur.

The range runs from the approachable Rosso di Valtellina and an Alpi Retiche rosato to prestige single-vineyard crus: 'Sol' (Valtellina Superiore Valgella, from 1920s vines), the flagship 'Jazpémi', and the long-aged Fracia Riserva.